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radomirthegreat

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Tell me how to make my AK32E work, please!

Hi, dear friends!  It's been a bit, so I'm re-posting to beg you to help me get my motherboard to work.

I ordered an AK32E motherboard from www.pcrapids.com a while ago.  It wouldn't start up with some stuff on it, so I took it to a local store and they told me it's dead.  I recently got a replacement.  I know it's a replacement, and not the same board sent back, since I put a little black dot on the side of a PCI slot on the old one before sending it in.

I have tried both boards, and the second board was tried even in a different case, with different hardware.  The other case now houses a great nForce chipset!  The new case has a working power supply, working ram, and a working boxed Duron 800.

I didn't plug in any IDE drives while trying to start up.

So, here's what I got out of the last post:

CMOS Jumper: Normal - nothing happens at all
CMOS Jumper: Clear   - fans spin up, no boot to OS, cannot even do memory test

The new motherboard is also dead.  I have ram that has worked in another PC.  If I've left out anything you want to know, then please ask.  I have no problem with huge threads.

Basically, I will accept the comment(s) that lead me to getting my motherboard to work.  That's all.

Thank you,
Radomir Jordanovic
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Glen A.
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>>I have no problem with huge threads.

I'll testify to that!!

But I have a question . . .   You say "The new motherboard is also dead."

I know you're aware enough to remove the board from the case and fire it up with just cpu, ram and video card. . .  what happens when you do it??  If it's dead there, and you know the psu, ram, cpu and video card are fine, then THE BOARD IS DEAD . . .

Or am I missing something, Radomir?
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radomirthegreat

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Although the motherboard has an AGP slot, I don't want to spend any more money than necessary.  This will replace my sister's P233, which also died.  She, a teenager, will use it for e-mail, chatting on AIM, scanning 3"×5" photos, and printing word documents.

Here's my hardware and what I know about it:

I took out the PCI video card from an older PC.  It's a working Radeon 7000 that replaced the onboard video on my older PC until I upgraded to a new system.  Now, the onboard video is back on again.

The CPU was ordered from a website as a boxed Duron 800.  The box was sealed, and the plastic and such smelled sickeningly new.  The Duron is the fastest CPU I could order for about $20 that could actually work on a SktA motherboard.

The ram (2×128MB PC-133 PNY) was bought at Best Buy and CompUSA.  It worked before.

The power supply works, but it's only 200W total.  I am sure it works, since it fired up the last time when the previous motherboard didn't boot to Windows.  Now, the old hardware is used as a shock absorber for an empty cardboard box.  I only planned to put on the motherboard, CPU, and ram so as to prevent problems.

I will take out the motherboard and put it in a new case that I'll order soon.  I have chosen to order from www.aaronix.com.  My sister would like this case: http://www.aaronix.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/70  Could you tell me about some horrible stuff you may have heard about it?  Could you recommend a power supply?  How about recommending another case with a baby blue design?

When I "fire it up", absolutely nothing happens.  Imagine pushing the power button on a case with nothing in it, and you'll get the right idea.  I recently put together my own PC, so I know about the process, but this stumps me completely.  The previous motherboard did the same thing!

Here's a list of the stuff I'm planning to put in the new case:

•Shuttle AK32E, if I can get it to work!
•Duron 800 w/ retail heatsink & fan
•PNY 256MB PC-133 SDRAM
•Seagate 80GB 7200rpm 8MB cache hdd
•some fdd from the old case
•a 52×24×52× CD-RW drive without a memorable manufacturer's name (Best Buy, $14.99 after rebate)
•Windows XP Home Edition

Any suggestions?  Has anyone else had his/her AK32E not work?

Thank you,
Radomir Jordanovic
I have added a link to this here:  http://oldlook-secure.experts-exchange.com/questions/20771538/AK32E-link.html

Go to that to get more points.

Thank you,
Radomir Jordanovic
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I have an AGP card.  A computer shop guy tested my previous board, and he said it was dead.  I have had the same problems with that one as with this one.  Thanks, public.  I'll try that.  Should I worry about tabletop surfaces, so as to avoid shorting anything?

What really interests me is if anyone else has had this problem before.

Thank you,
Radomir Jordanovic
So, would the PCI card be OK?  The AGP card's well-settled and hog-tied in a massively organized case...

Do you have anything against PCI cards?
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I have opened up some different threads about certain cases and power supplies.  I am sorry, but it seems that I will have to delay this thread.  The system actually never started up with the new board.  It's as if I never even plugged it in.  I will order the case tonight, if possible.  There is a thread that I have started here: http://oldlook.experts-exchange.com/questions/20771552/Old-case-new-case-power-supply-other-stuff.html to see what I should do about the case matter.

Should I close this thread by awarding points for other answers, and then start this up when the case arrives and if the motherboard doesn't work, or should I just leave this open until this can advance further?

Thanks,
Radomir Jordanovic
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Oh, good.  Thanks a lot!
This is Radomir's friend.  His account has been suspended, so he's forwarded his e-mail notices to me so that I can inform you about what has happened and tell you not to expect answers from him for a while.

Jim Passmore
Oh, I'm back!  Yes!  Back!  Yes!  I'm going right down the list of my open questions, and it feels so good!

Update:

On a cardboard box went a half-dead motherboard to test the PSU, mobo holder, and so on.  The mobo powered up two fans, so the testing place was good to go.  I set up the motherboard, and I shorted the pins.  Once again, nothing.  This time, however, I only had the CPU w/ heatsink & fan, ram, and video card.  So, I put the CMOS jumper to RESET and shorted the pins again... then, voilà!  It powered right up, and I set the stuff I needed to set.  Then, I tested the setup by restarting so that I can make sure the BIOS isn't reset every time the mobo starts up.  IT WORKED!

I installed a Duron 800, 640MBs of PC-133 ram, an 80GB hard drive, a CD burner, a wireless ethernet PCI card and an older PCI video card that's not meant for 3D apps.  I gave the Radeon to a friend of mine.  The one my sister now has is a Mach64somethingorother, and it produces a nice image for e-mail, chatting, and surfing the web.

The system ram is a bit much, but that's ok.  I have no other use for it, anyway.

So, thank you all who have participated.  Before I close this, could you tell me why my Shuttle AK32E does that funky CMOS thing?  Will I be able to reset the CMOS without removing the battery?

Thank you,
Radomir Jordanovic
>>>Will I be able to reset the CMOS without removing the battery?<<<  As long as there is a jumper to Clear CMOS on the mobo ( be sure to unplug the power cord first, as some PSU/MOBO's keep a small electric charge going even when off ). As for why?  Sounds like the BIOS or PSU got confused, and didn't know how to recover.
>why my Shuttle AK32E does that funky CMOS thing?  
That funky cmos thing is usually due to setting the clock or fsb too fast of dram cycles too short for the system to start.
What?  That's all standard - 100MHz FSB for a Duron 800 using PC-133 ram at the speed of PC-100.  The ram functions well at CL3.  Absolutely nothing is overclocked at all.  Is it possible to explain why the system cannot start up with the DEFAULT setting of the CMOS jumper?  Why does this happen?

Thank you,
Radomir Jordanovic
There is no default setting of the jumper. There is a default setting of the bios values by resetting the jumper. It is not really a question of overclocking, ist's just that some of the settings did not allow the system to boot. This may happen when you have a very fast memory and select set timing by spd for example.
Settings?  Right out of the box, the motherboard only works with the CMOS jumper set to RESET.  In the manual, the other jumper setting is called DEFAULT.  On DEFAULT, the motherboard will not ever start up.  If normal settings are loaded with the jumper set at that, the only way to reset the CMOS would be by removing the battery.  That's a bit weird, isn't it?  What's the use of a DEFAULT setting, then?

Thank you,
Radomir Jordanovic
wild guess:  either the labeling is backward or the mobo is weird. Neither of which is a first.
Strange...  How would the motherboard be weird?  I'm going to award points tomorrow (1st of Novemeber).

If you have seen my link for this thing, I'm sorry.  I've had account suspension problems, and I can't risk anything else.  I will make a 500 point question about the CMOS jumper and paste the link here.

Thank you,
Radomir Jordanovic
Thanks a lot!  I didn't know only 3 people participated.  When I found that out, I split up the points between the three of you rather than spreading out the points between answers.  The points were split up like this: 170, 165, 165 and in that order.  The accepted answer pretty much covered my concerns.  The other two followed up on that.

Thanks a lot,
Radomir Jordanovic
Thank you much.    : )